So I'm back with my travel stories! It took me a couple of weeks and a lot of push... but here we are, finally. For me, travel blog entries are one of the most time-consuming things to write about because I simply blab about EVERYTHING, wanting to put into writing all the experiences I had. Time-consuming, yes, but still one of my favorite topics to write and read about!

Our fourth day in South Korea started early... like 6:00AM early because we needed to be at Hotel President (near City Hall Station) before 8AM. We booked our tour via DMZ Tours and their office is located on the 3rd floor of the said hotel. The subway ride from Myeongdong to City Hall Station is around 15mins. only. When we reached the hotel, we went to the 3rd floor office and paid for our tour package. 

We availed of DMZ Tour 3, which included the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel (Tour 1) + Panmunjeom/Joint Security Area (Tour 2) tours. We chose that tour because Tour 1 would give us a more in-depth background of the demilitarized zone while Tour 2 would allow us to "set foot" on North Korea territory. Tour 3 costs 130,000 won/person. If you'll be getting the Tour 2 or Tour 3 packages, there is a dress code you should STRICTLY follow. Other instructions (date, time, venue,  things to bring  -> PASSPORT!, etc.) will be sent to your e-mail after your reservation has been confirmed.

The tour bus was parked in front of the hotel and since we still had a few minutes left before 8AM, we dropped by the nearby convenience store and bought kimbap for breakfast take-out.

Already inside the bus and eating my spicy pork kimbap. It was indeed very spicy and filling! I didn't get to finish eating these rolls.

The bus ride to DMZ was only around an hour long. Since we were heading northward, I made most of the time by looking at my surroundings... through the bus windows lol. We were also accompanied by an English-speaking tour guide who gave us a brief history of the DMZ.

Heading north north north~

Yummy Honey Tong Tong chips for the bus ride!

The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a 4km wide area considered as a "buffer zone" or "neutral territory" where military activities are prohibited. The Military Demarcation Line (MDL) is in the middle of the DMZ and serves as the land border between the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK/North Korea) and the Republic of Korea (ROK/South Korea). Technically speaking, the 2km area surrounding the north AND south sides of the MDL is the DMZ. 

Even though it's a demilitarized zone, the DMZ is the "most heavily militarized border in the world" because of violent happenings that occured in the area even after the zone was established. In relation to this, there are a lot of rules one must observe when inside the DMZ. When the soldiers say not to take photos, point fingers, etc., the best thing to do is follow their orders.  

Entering the DMZ, a South Korean soldier did a security check (better have those passports!) and joined our tour group as we proceeded to our first stop: the Dora Observatory.

We were also asked to leave our bags inside the bus throughout the tour and just bring the valuables. In our case, we brought money and our phones.

 Dora Observatory

The Dora Observatory, from the name itself, has an observation deck where one can see a glimpse of North Korea. Taking photos of North Korea from the observation deck is a huge NO-NO. From the deck, we were able to see Kim Il-Sung's statue, the North Korea flag, Gijong-dong - the propaganda village, and Kaesong/Gaeseong village. Our tour guide also told us that if you listen closely, you would hear some music coming from North Korea. The music is intended to block the international news/Kpop music South Korea is blasting via loudspeakers from the border. Sounds funny but it's true! Earlier this year, after North Korea's series of nuclear tests, South Korea resumed its blasting of international news/Kpop music to inform North Koreans of how the "outside" world is really like. I actually heard the music coming from North Korea and it sounded eerie to my ears. It literally gave me goosebumps, as if the gravity of the situation just dawned upon me. Thinking about it now still gives me the heebie-jeebies!

End of Separation, Beginning of Unification -- we have officially entered the Korean Demilitarized Zone. On the left side of the photo is where the observation deck is located. This is one of the few photos we could take at the Dora Observatory.

A wider view | While taking these photos, a soldier was watching me so I took these in a rush even though it was allowed lol!

There is also a souvenir shop in this area and we bought DMZ soybean chocolates. I also bought a mug for my dad because he loves anything historical. 

 Third Infiltration Tunnel

Our next stop was the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel. This tunnel was made by North Koreans but its length extended beyond the MDL, already occupying South Korea territory. The tunnel was never completed because it was discovered by South Koreans. It was allegedly made as means to attack Seoul, based on its supposed route. It is believed that there are around 20 tunnels built by North Korea but as of now, only 4 have been discovered.

We immediately saw this when we got in the area and the tourists were doing this pose. Jj just had to join the fun!

Tourist Map of Paju, where the Third Infiltration Tunnel is located

To go down the tunnel, you can opt to walk or ride a sled. Our package already included the sled ride so yay no walking for us! Everyone had to wear a helmet and put their valuables in a locker before entering the tunnel. Taking of photos inside the tunnel was not allowed.

The waiting area for the sled ride | You can get a helmet from the shelves at the back while the lockers are located on the left of the shelves.

The entrance to the 3rd tunnel~

Inside the tunnel, we walked to the other end by following a specific route. The varying ceiling heights of the tunnel and its wet atmosphere put the helmets to good use! Since this tunnel was built by the North Koreans, its other end would definitely be beyond the demarcation line. Tourists wouldn't see the MDL though because 3 concrete barricades were used to block it. The "end" of the route is just up to the 3rd barricade and that barricade has a little window where we took a peak and saw the 2nd barricade. Even though we were still quite far from the MDL, taking a glance at the 2nd barricade gave me a surreal feeling. North Korea was just meters away from me. Whew.

When we reached the 3rd barricade, we headed back to where the sled was located. There is also fresh tap water available inside the tunnel and we tasted it just for the experience :P 

  Dorasan Station

After the tunnel, we headed to Dorasan Station, which is the northernmost railway station of South Korea via Gyeongui line. The Dorasan Station once connected North and South Korea. Now, obviously, it's quite abandoned. Currently, the only routes this station serves are the Seoul-Dorasan, Dorasan-Seoul routes with tourists as the usual passengers.

In the bus, on the way to Dorasan Station | See you later, Seoul!

Outside the Dorasan Station.

You can enter the platform by purchasing the train tickets. We took the opportunity to do so because not only could the ticket serve as a souvenir, but also because this was a once in a lifetime experience!

On our way to the imaginary train that could take us to Pyeongyang...

So here we are. It looks rather peaceful, right?

The railroad tracks to Pyeongyang, North Korea | Quite a surreal thought, isn't it? How North Korea is a few kms and could be just a train ride away... Actually, I've been feeling surreal throughout this whole experience hehe.

Empty railroad tracks is a good background! Also had this photo taken because hey, <- that's the way to North Korea! 

Obviously became too snap-happy because there were no photo restrictions at this place!

Train bound for Seoul will leave at 4 in the afternoon!

"Not the last station from the South, But the first station toward the North." Makes you wonder when will Dorasan station resume its operations for the trains bound for the other side... Hmm...

A number of souvenir shops are inside the station but we didn't buy anything anymore. You can also have your passports stamped here to commemorate your visit.

After Dorasan Station, it was time for lunch! This was part of our tour package. It also started raining this time.

The restaurant where we had our lunch meal

Traditional Korean meal spread | Look at those refillable side dishes!

We spent around an hour for lunch then we proceeded to Imjingak Park.

 Imjingak Park

Imjingak Park was built as a symbol of hope -- the hope of the reunification of North Korea and South Korea someday. Our tour guide also told us that this place is meant to console the people (from both North and South Korea) who got separated from their families or hometown because of the war. Imjingak Park is such a huge place; it has restaurants, an amusement park, etc. We only traversed the areas that are related to the Korean War however because of time constraints.

Imjingak Park is by the Imjin River, thus, the body of water in the photo

The pink cherry blossom trees seem so out of place in such a solemn area

War tank from the Korean War 

"Bridge of Freedom" is the area in Imjingak Park that tugged my heartstrings the most. Before, this bridge was used by prisoners of war and soldiers to return to South Korea. Now, what we saw at the end of the bridge (the rest of the bridge were blocked/cut off) were these colorful ribbons filled with Korean characters. Koreans wrote messages for their loved ones who died during the war or who were left in North Korea on these ribbons then tied these to the bridge. I couldn't help but feel melancholic when I saw this sight. I couldn't imagine being separated from my loved ones, especially if they were supposedly just a couple of hours and miles away from me. 

The ribbons filled with messages | Notice the barbed wires on top? A warning to everyone not to do anything funky such as attempt to climb over the barrier... The separation in its realest form.

After Imjingak, it was now time to go to Panmunjom/Joint Security Area (JSA) aka the most-awaited part of the tour!

According to Wikipedia, "the JSA is the only portion of the Korean DMZ where North and South Korean forces stand face-to-face." If the first part of the tour has strict rules, the rules for the JSA tour is much stricter. You'll actually see North Korean soldiers when you go here and cautious actions are needed so as not to offend the North Korean forces. A (good-looking!) JSA soldier, Mr. Kim, checked our passports and served as our military escort during the JSA tour.  

Our first stop was Camp Bonifas. We signed a waiver and watched a video about the history of the Korean War and the DMZ in the Visitor Centre there. Signing the waiver scared me because it stated that injury or death IS possible during the visit because of the presence of the "enemy." We knew the risks we were taking when we joined this tour but reading it off a waiver just made it more real. 

After the orientation, we went to the Freedom House. Built as a reunion place for separated families, this building has the walkway that will lead to the conference rows (the blue houses) -- the main complex of the JSA. We entered the Freedom House then exited to where the conference rooms are. 

This is the exact place where the North and South Korean soldiers stand face-to-face. The building behind the blue conference rooms is North Korea property already.

The only view you can take a photo of. See the different-leveled concrete at the center of the conference rooms? That is the military demarcation line. The change of the flooring also indicates that the other side is not South Korea territory already. Surreal... but still amusing seeing it with your own eyes!

A group photo because hey, we're about to "enter" North Korea!

After the photo-taking sessions, we then went inside the Military Armistice Conference Room. This was where the Korean Armistice Agreement was signed. This also used to hold military negotiations between North Korea and the United Nations Command. 

The MDL literally passes through the center of this table, which means that one side of the table is South Korea property/territory and the other side is North Korea property/territory

You can take photos inside the conference room but look at my face! I was still pretty much scared~

I look so weird here (my face is so fat???) but say hello to good-looking Mr. Kim! After the tour, he seemed pretty approachable, probably because the atmosphere was less stiff/serious here! :p